Down And Out In The Big Mango

As a traveller, my worst fear has continually been that I'd discover myself on a few lee shore, some distance from domestic, dead broke, with out a cash, no traveller's assessments and useless credit playing cards. And to top all of it no air price ticket domestic or pals to lean on. It's a nightmare that does not undergo thinking about. It's by no means passed off, but I dread it and to cowl such a disaster I always tour with an emergency fund of last resort within the shape of 3 gold cash, Canadian Maple Leafs, stashed in my belt.

As a writer, I've always been interested by coming across every body who had experienced such an occasion. I've met most effective one. He become sitting on a store the front step some fifty meters from the Nana Skytrain Station on Bangkok's busy Sukhumvit Road: commonplace for a farang in that infamous part of metropolis and he barely registered as I descended the steps to the road. But as I exceeded through him, my eye stuck the crude cardboard signal declaring:

DESTITUTE NEED MONEY FOR FOOD PLEASE HELP

A tin cup stood by way of the sign. I paused in my stride. I placed him round fifty five. Dressed in a khaki shirt, shorts and a huge rimmed bush hat, he jogged my memory of a image I'd visible of the film director, Francis Ford Coppola on location for the movie, Apocalypse Now. He again my gaze with a sheepish smile. It was two within the afternoon and 39 stages inside the coloration. Now, a farang, pan-managing the streets of Bangkok is losing his time. As Thais firmly trust that farang are wealthy, all farang, he ought to assume little pity plenty less cash from the amused throng passing him via. Of course, the sign, being in English, changed into aimed at foreign expatriates and tourists and the Nana region does teem with them. Even so, I placed his chances of achievement as a little less than an ice dice in hell on a totally hot day. I picked up the can: it contained a fifty baht be aware and a few coins. I tossed in any other hundred. "Would you like a lager?" I asked him. He smiled broadly, grabbed his p.C. And got here to his toes. We shook hands. His name changed into Alain and he was from France. I located a bar close by, took a table and ordered a glass of Chang beer. It became a quiet, well air-conditioned place and we were the most effective consumers. A quite carrier girl introduced the pitcher and crammed the glasses. Alain tired his in  lengthy pulls. "Nectar," he said, with a grin. "Thank you."

"So, what the hell passed off to you?" I asked, refilling his glass. "It is a long tale," he stated, wiping his face with a napkin.

I suspected a woman turned into worried somewhere within the mess he'd observed himself in and I was keen to pay attention about it. "We have time," I stated. "Tell me."

He took a long draught of beer, settled again in his chair and closed his eyes; he regarded very weary. I noticed the heavy beard stubble, the raveled hair and he smelled rough. I decided to await my story. "Are you hungry?" I asked.

"I am," he responded. "Very."

From the bar menu I ordered for him khao phat gai, fried rice with bird, nothing for myself; I settled for the beer. Normally, I by no means drink earlier than sunset, but I turned into within the temper and this Chang changed into happening like cold, sparkling cream. Alain ate like a Frenchman, with measured gusto. His plate wiped clean he went again to his beer. "When did you sleep final? In a bed?" I queried.

He shook his head. "I can't bear in mind." He seemed well and without a doubt bushed, and I sensed a little disorientated.

"You're worn-out, Alain," I said. "You want a few sleep. I'm going to get you a room." I ordered every other pitcher.

"You are truely very type," he stated. "You do not know me at all."

"True," I said. "But I've continually dreaded ending up like I found you. I absolutely couldn't leave you there. But the fee is you inform me your story. We can do that tomorrow, after you have rested. Is that a deal?"

"That's first-class," he said, smiling. "It's a deal."

Back on Sukhumvit, I bought for him a blouse and a few shorts and underwear from a market stall. Then, I booked him in the Bangkok Inn Guesthouse and organized to meet within the lobby at midday the following day. I went returned to my inn feeling properly approximately myself. I'd played the Good Samaritan and completed the decent component. I'd made advantage and pursued suitable karma. I showered and modified and set out to take care of unfinished business after which meet a adorable Thai woman, my future wife, for supper.

Normally up at the beginning light, I slept in the following morning and became late for our rendezvous. Alain become waiting within the lobby studying the Bangkok Post. A distinctive man, he'd bathed and shaved, his thick auburn hair turned into washed and brushed returned and he was carrying the garments I'd sold for him. He smelt clean and of pleasant cologne. "Paco Rabane," he grinned when I commented. "I actually have a touch left. But, it's nearly gone."

Sleeping overdue, neither he nor I had taken breakfast, so I suggested a good lunch became in order. We dined at the Food Center on Sukhumvit. Then, we repaired to a resto-bar on Soi 7 I regularly common that serves respectable wine. We took an outdoor desk in color and secure in seats of well cushioned wicker underneath a fan. I ordered a bottle of Italian white on ice. I positioned Alain relaxed through telling him of myself, my paintings, my home in Canada and the guesthouse I became constructing near Chiang Mai. He spoke super English in a cautious, circumspect manner with a strong accessory. He was from Bretagne and 59 years antique. He'd taken early retirement following a career in civil engineering that had taken him global extensive, operating freelance, with high remuneration and paying little taxes. He'd worked five lengthy years in Saudi Arabia, hated it (no, wine, no girls!!), but made huge, tax free, money.

"I can't bitch approximately the money," he laughed. "But I could not stand the location. Every few months I'd take an go out visa and get again to France to maintain my sanity."

Though an engineer, he had many hobbies and through the years had taken university guides on such diverse disciplines as history, political science, philosophy and social anthropology; he became sensible and tremendously nicely examine. I felt that Alain had contemplated often on the meaning of lifestyles and why guys are born. We had an awful lot in not unusual. And the wine had the desired effect and we both became increasingly more expansive. We discussed many stuff, but particularly we referred to travel, South East Asia and Thailand. We talked of women, Oriental girls and particularly Thai girls and the hypnotic, Siren like, allurement they have held for Western men considering that 16th century European sailors and adventurers back home with memories in their charming beauty. He became additionally privy to the dangers of involvement; like me, he knew the stories and we shared some.

Alain first came to Thailand after the death of his wife. She'd died of ovarian most cancers leaving him with a daughter, Lisa, who had graduated from college with honors as a clinical physician some months after her mother's dying. Grief , and on Lisa's recommendation, Alain decided on a year of travel and Thailand turned into on the itinerary. He got here for 3 weeks and stayed 3 months. He lower back once more the following year for four months. He appreciated Pattaya and started out spending the European summers there. Then, Lisa came throughout images of her father with younger Thai girls which brought about a bust up.

"She known as me a intercourse visitor and hasn't spoken a word to me given that," Alain chuckled. He took a photo from his pocket and slipped it across the table. I picked it up. It become a expert studio portrait of a Thai lady, a totally lovely lady, with a great smile. "Kab," he stated. "She may be very cute," I stated.

"Yes," he smiled. "She was." He fished out more snaps of her. Some were with Alain, others with a small child, a female, and others with Alain and the kid. They looked a satisfied own family. But this become the lady, I was sure of it.

"Where did you meet her?"

"In a Jomtien bar, an excellent bar." he said. "I'd commenced to want Jomtien, the town south of Pattaya because it changed into quieter, less raucous. I had a candy condo there near the seashore and quite inexpensive. The bar was on a nearby road. I'd dropped in for some beers and to look at a few football," he smiled. "Chelsea and Liverpool. She became operating there. She become the supervisor and mamasan. It turned into a quiet night with few clients and he or she was going to shut while the sport ended. She spoke true English and seemed so lovely in her back business suit with blouse and tie. Her parent became exceptional. I bought her a drink. She invited me to select a lady. But they had been a stupid bunch of bargirls, non appealing. But she became."

"So, you hit on her," I stated.

"Yes. She appeared taken aback. 'I'm thirty six,' she said. 'I'm old.' I informed her she changed into cute. Yes, I bar-fined her. She placed the cash inside the coins box, despatched the ladies domestic, closed the bar and got here lower back to my vicinity." He smiled. "And I in no way noticed the ending of the soccer sport."

"And that become the beginning?" "Yes. I noticed her once more the subsequent night and again bar-fined her. Within a week she'd quit the bar and was residing with me. I determined to upgrade and signed a lease on a supplied residence with 3 bedrooms, a home health club, a pool and lovely garden. I paid for the whole thing, of course, and gave Kab 8,000 baht a month to spend as she wished. I additionally set her up with a marketplace stand selling clothes and shoes; it made a little cash on top of her allowance and gave her an hobby." I smiled.

"She should have preferred that?" "Yes, she did. But quickly sufficient my time become almost up. My visa changed into expiring and I turned into because of fly domestic to France, but I did not want to move. I made a snap decision and let the ticket expire. I went down to Penang, Malaysia and were given another visa for a yr."

On his return they traveled north to Issan wherein he met her own family in a far flung village. He refurbished her determine's residence and acquired her father a Honda scooter. Kab's daughter, Fon went lower back with them to Jomtien for the college holidays. Life regarded idyllic and he privately debated whether he need to ask Kab to marry him. A month later a debit card turned into declined at an ATM. As he used 4, he thought little of it. He'd skilled ATM pc glitches earlier than and they commonly corrected themselves. But this did no longer. Two weeks later a 2d card became declined. This time he was worried and irritated. He saved notice of all withdrawals and was nicely aware of what the balances should be and he knew he become well inside the black. He composed handwritten letters to both French banks asking for explanations and posted them registered mail. Then, in short succession, his remaining two cards failed, the ultimate one while he became in Bangkok visiting buddies; he now had critical problems. Unable to make headway through e-mailing and telephoning the banks, he needed to fly to France. Unfortunately, Alain used handiest debit playing cards and had no credit score playing cards. But, as a cautious man, he had a reserve of coins that might buy his ticket.

"I can interrogate my financial institution bills on the net." I informed him. Could you no longer do this?"

"No," he said. "You ought to restore it along with your bank individually before leaving domestic. I unnoticed to do it. You can not arrange it from overseas."

Alain headed back to Jomtien in which any anger he held for his banks and their machine quickly dissolved into surprise. Kab become now not home. He phoned her, but her smartphone turned into lifeless. Preparing to shower, he noticed her bathroom articles were long past. And in the bedroom a further surprise; her entire wardrobe was cleared out. She'd left him. At his desk he located the locked drawer in which he kept his personal things have been compelled and the reserve fund, 50,000 baht, was long gone. He found out now that the debit card hassle became not a bank computer glitch. Kab was the problem.

"But I do not know how," he stated. I in no way allow her use the playing cards. I never disclosed the pin numbers, nor did I ever write them down. The numbers are in my head. Only I recognise them."

I couldn't begin to consider how he must have felt. Cleaned out by a girl he had cherished and trusted. He wanted assist badly. His French pals in Pattaya have been found looking. "Drinking friends," he defined them bitterly.

"What approximately your daughter, the physician? She would fly you domestic, honestly," I stated.

He laughed. "She would, no doubt. But I might by no means live it down. Could you believe the triumph, the contempt? I'd were given what I deserve, the wages of a intercourse visitor. I'd be under her thumb for life. No, Lisa became out. My handiest wish turned into Sacha, my brother. But Sacha is on a six week long canoeing vacation in northern Canada: he's no longer contactable. And he might not be home till the quit of this month."

"What approximately buddies in France?"

"I do have them, but I couldn't stand the shame, the humiliation. They could need to realize how I got into this mess. And it would not be long before Lisa could get wind of it. No, Sacha is my lifeline."

With his rent due, Alain moved out, ditched maximum of his matters and moved to Bangkok. His plan became to pan-deal with enough cash for meals and if viable accommodations till the time his brother would be returned in France. He worked the Khao San Road and the backpackers earlier than shifting to Nana. It changed into hard and humiliating, but worked to a few degree as some days he picked up enough to get a dormitory room in some tough living. He was doing that after I'd located him.

Two days later, in an act of accept as true with, I put Alain on an Air France flight to Paris. He promised he would refund me whilst he got domestic. And he did. Two weeks after he left a deposit overlaying the price tag cost arrived in my bank. He accompanied this with a letter thanking me for my help and trust.

Almost a year handed earlier than I heard from him once more. It got here in the shape of an electronic mail; he changed into back in Thailand, in Jomtien and invited me down. I bussed down the subsequent week and we met for lunch on the Pattaya Beer Garden. Alain, immaculate in ivory slacks and a blue tropical blouse and loafers and exuding the acquainted Paco Rabane, seemed the picture of health and contentment. He gripped my hand vigorously. "Good to see you. Wine or beer?" he grinned.

"Wine," I answered. "White."

"And pizza?"

"Of direction."

He ordered the wine, a satisfactory white Wolf Blass from Australia to be accompanied by way of a large all dressed pizza. We made small talk and bantered in preferred on many topics. He had healed the breach with his daughter and that they had been lower back on talking terms. But he'd found France bloodless and depressing and the human beings, in comparison to Thais, as ugly as the climate. He'd been again in Thailand for 3 months and satisfied of it. But, impatient to know the endgame of the Kab affair, I changed the concern. "What befell about your cash?"

He paused, drank a touch wine. "It was devastating," he said. "My bank statements confirmed Kab had withdrawn large quantities of cash, some days the day by day most on the cards. I couldn't believe it. Inside a month she'd nearly emptied the bills."

"But how, if she did not have the pin codes?"

He chuckled. "Oh, but she had the pin codes. But I in no way gave them too her." He refilled the glasses. "It took me a while to determine out how she'd completed it."

Intrigued, I stated nothing, sipped wine and waited.

He gave me a protracted smile. "She used the kid," he said.

"Her daughter?"

"Fon. Yes, she used her."

"How?"

"Whenever I went to a bank ATM to make a withdrawal, I'd regularly take Fon with me. Afterwards we would perhaps take a stroll at the seaside and I'd purchase her ice cream. I enjoyed the female and having her come alongside. And from time to time, on the ATM she'd question me to boost her up and watch me work the keypad and out might pop the money. This changed into magical to her and made her snigger. Sometimes I even let her push the buttons. You can guess the rest."

"Fon then told her mother the pin codes," I stated. He nodded.

"Christ," I stated. "You're high-quality?"

"It's the most effective valid explanation. I kept the numbers in my head as we all do. I in no way had to write them down. But I foolishly gave them to the kid. It was a sport to the child, however critical enterprise for Kab. Arriving domestic, Fon offers her mother the pin wide variety as a part of the sport. And at the primary opportunity after I'm no longer round, Kab takes a card and makes a big withdrawal, 10 to 15,000 baht: a variety of money. I do agree with she delivered Fon down to live with us just for that reason."

I concept I'd heard all of the tales, but this changed into a new one, using a baby in that way; actually one for the documents. Alain by no means disclosed to me how lots he had misplaced which leads me to believe it was a totally heavy quantity, many thousand Euros. Yet, he remained cool approximately it and displayed no bitterness. Seeking Kab and retribution did not input into his thoughts. He no doubt found out it'd be a waste of time. He'd moved on. The pizza came and turned into directly devoured and a brand new bottle ordered. As we drank, he announced that he had a brand new woman. "She's out of your territory, Chiang Mai," he stated. "Her call is Sunisa, nickname Kung. She's a schoolteacher. You will like her."

I met Kung that night time and liked her immediately. She turned into 40 , divorced with an adult son and daughter. She had a adorable condo, low rise and spacious. We sat out on a balcony terrace that left out the bay and enjoyed a pleasant meal consisting of many Thai dishes washed down with copious amounts of wine from France. Kung became small with an athletic, shapely determine and a pleasing smart face. I loved watching her going approximately her residence enterprise and fussing over Alain and myself. I observed her very appealing, although not even near the surreal beauty of Kab. But then Alain wasn't looking for that anymore.

I returned to Jomtien 4 months later for Alain and Kung's weddings: there have been two, a Buddhist ceremony and a Catholic one. And six months after that they came north to Chiang Mai for mine. We keep in touch and meet often. We have a real and lasting friendship..

Alain's tale illustrates how a type, first rate, trusting, however foolish, guy can frequently be taken advantage of, in his case, with the aid of a ruthless lady. It also serves as a lesson to tourists especially in South East Asia and specially male travelers in Thailand. In sultry climates, within the languid seductive ecosystem of the tropics there may be an inclination to drop one's protect. I'm tempted to say: trust no person, however that might be unfair and make for an un-enjoyable tour experience. But a man ought to preserve his wits approximately him and take realistic precautions. Lastly it's miles a story of accept as true with and having religion in a fellow man. I took a chance, provided a assisting hand and changed into nicely rewarded for it.